September 13th, 2005, 3:22 AM EST

Subject: Magic Mountains and Browning Beaches

Dear Family,

It's been a little while since I've talked to you all at once - a sign that indicates my growing comfort out here. I suppose my need to speak to home is a sign of my addiction to it. As my homeward journey approaches in nearly a month, I am now filled with excitement and bewilderment at the idea. Finally it seems that I feel more used to being a wanderer than having roots in a home. I really appreciate this change, that I've found a home in the midst of movement, a stillness in the ever changing picture of life. This peace of mind is what I came here for...

I believe the last word of my travels came from Katmandu, a lazy vacation ground from the true potency of adventuring. After pulling myself away from the good company, killer food, luxury room (having a bathroom makes it so), and the layed back lifestyle, I made my way into the intimidatingly intense Indian frontier. I suppose the slight apprehension I felt entering India was a helpful guide. I decided to focus my path toward the northern mountains where I knew things to be cooler and more relaxed. This descision involved skipping the famous route to Varanasi (India's "holiest" city) and Agra (location of the Taj Mahal), a path I had skipped last time due to the extent of beating tourists have layed upon them. I'll see it someday. It's sort of inevitable. I suppose at this point though, I'm not really looking to just see the sights.

Essentially it took 4 days of straight travel to get from Katmandu to McCloed Ganj, India, an exhausting but worthwhile undertaking. Breath stealing heat had nearly robbed me of my last bits of lifeforce after being in the thick of it each day. As I rode into the mists of McCloed and took my first gasps of cool mountain air, I knew at once that I had chosen wisely. This place became a sort of home away from home - more comfortable than any other place I've been abroad. It was a mystic's dream with workshops galore covering every metaphysical facet you can think of. I took yoga classes from the 7th highest ranking yoga teacher in the world. I even had the chance to ad to the mediphysical assortment by teaching my own Reiki workshop which went over really well. The food was safe and mostly organic, brown rice was ever flowing, and I know it's hard to believe - but literally the best baked goods on the planet reside there (easily the most amazing brownies, pies, breads, and quiesh I've ever had). This is usually the home of the Dalai Lama but unfortunately he was traveling around at the time. I did have the opportunity to meet the Karmapa though, a 20 year old 17th reincarnation of one of the mnost important Buddhist figures - he may even replace the Dalai Lama in 20 or so years after his inevitabe passing on. In my mind he was just a kid with a lot of responsibility on his shoulers but it was still a novelty to meet him (in a large group setting).

Although the external aspects were a pleasure there, it was the internal happenings that I am proud to look back on. I went through some big shifts in those mountains, with much fasting and meditation needed to bring it through. I have met some companions along the way who have acted as the most perfect of reflections for me, some true kinships have formed and friends for life are seemingly assured. My closest companion has been a medical student from England who has spent everyday with me for nearly the last month. It's been so comforting to have really profound conversation again, he has a well thought out and rounded philosophy that bounces off mine quite well - we seem to end each night gasping in awe at some exstatic revelation. Companions I feel completely comfortable sharing directions with can be a little rare, I am quite protective of my ability to flow with whatever wind has caught my sail - in this case though we seem to catch the very same currents. While in McCloed we would make late night journeys to a nearby waterfall staring and "OMing" into the full moons reflection on the falling waters. There was a nearby cave we'd bring candles to and spend the night chatting away about the intricacies of life and the path. We hiked up into the valley to find precious blue pools to swim in, toured the restaurant balconies overlooking different sides of the lush green rolling hills, vistited the sacred sights, and broke sweat in yoga together. I also managed to write a rough draft of my research paper from my Tibet trip (final draft due at the end of this month!). Truly I look back on that three weeks as one of the most precious gifts this trip has offered me - a real opportunity for reflection and inner work to take hold. Serendipity feels stronger than ever since this precious time to stew.

Steve, a zesty Brazillian named Karine, and I left about a week ago on a 16 hour bus to Delhi. We spent one full day there drinking the choking heat away with endless banana lassis. Then we got ourselves on a 41 hour train ride to Goa - home of India's lucious beaches and another known layed back zone. We went to meet a half Indian / half British girl named Shanta we had met in McCloed who had been visiting Goa her whole life. She is another sweet soul who has offered much in regards to showing us the lesser known facets of this wonderful place. We stayed in Arambol for three days right on the beach and ate like Indian kings and basked in the sun. Every night we made a trek about 45 minutes down the beach to eat with a small family that Shanta knew - the lady of the house was named Pratima and she is literally makes the most splendid food that has ever graced my lips. We happened to come at the start of Ganesha's 21 day long celebration so she was cooking her very best for groups that were gathering at her house. She literally cooked for days before hand and we merely ate whatever was offered: fresh Okra dishes, cabbage and coconut, fresh caught fish, home grown brown rice, and a mango curry that has altered me forever. Such a precious opportunity to meet the family and play with adorable kids outside a palm treed paradise - I fell in love with Goa right there and then.

After a few days there, we rented motor scooters and have been journeying the beachlands this way ever since. I left a large backpack with Pratima and now have only the most base of survival gear. I have discoved a deeply intrenched passion of riding the open road in this way, being light and seeing the panaramic view of the world as I cruise through it. We went for 4 hours south to a beach named Palolem known for being a particularly nice paradise. By the way the traffic is not so bad here for those of you who imagine the insanity of Indian roads - I still need to watch out for the wandering cows and the crazies who decide to pass cars around corners coming at me. I feel quite cozy and in control on the bike now though - no need to cast out your worries for clutzy ol' me. Palolem is where I reside now, in a "coconut hut" - a small shack on stilts that is sitting right in front of the tropical beach postcard ocean setting (all for the bargain price of 3 dollars). I can go get lobster for 5 dollars or fresh juices (fruit and veggie) at the organic cafe down the street (who also carry things like the long missed soy yogurt). Today we have extended our stay to visit an island that sits across from us that we can walk to when the tide is low. Tomorrow we ride to OM beach - a more remote setting about 80 km south of here...

I am more than content right now spending my days burning / browning before my eventual return. I have a few more plans on my "to do" list - either head south to Kerala and visit a female guru or go east to Bangalore to meet up with a Indian architect friend I met in Tibet, then head to the Ramana Maharishi ashram where he has an "in" with. After a few more thrilling chapters though, I prepare my mind for the forthcoming depature while simultaneously planning my return. There are many more trips for me here, even after another month I know that the surface has barely been scratched once again. I am in love with this place, taken by a common fever that strikes many travelers drawn here. We can't stop coming back no matter what this place offers up. Even if we come home defeated there is a fierce calling to return in search of whatever it is we're looking for. I suppose I have stopped searching though. I somewhere along the way decided to simply have a good time and spend more time in less places. It's been like a really good dream that effortlessly depicts scenery that I feel I never could have imagined on my own, I surrendor to this mysterious momentum to my quest right now and know that I am safe.

It's time to say adeiu, I have some beach goodness to enjoy outside. I love you all so much and can't wait to dish out monsterous bear hugs. I'll see you Arcatans in early October and you Seattlites around Thanksgiving.

Peace, Love, and Namaste,
Jamie